November 20, 2009 was the opening day of the 4th Session of the National Assembly of Bhutan. I awaited the arrival of the day like an excited little boy. I cancelled or postponed all my other engagements in order that I can be in Thimphu to attend the Opening Session. But when the day finally arrived, I spent the whole of it feeling frustrated, disgusted, angry and even almost rebellious but totally helpless to do anything about it!
I worked for weeks in advance to obtain clearance from the relevant authorities to photograph the colorful Opening Ceremony presided over by the Druk Gyalpo. I had never before photographed the Opening Session of the National Assembly and so this was a big moment for me. From what I have seen in the BBS TV, the grandeur, the setting and the regality of the event is unmatched. I met and sought advice from the Hon’ble Speaker and the Secretary of the National Assembly on how best to photograph the event; which gates to enter through and ran through the entire gamut of the DOs and DONTs of photographing in the great Hall.
Both the Hon’ble Speaker and the Secretary of the National Assembly (with whom I had separate meetings) explicitly told me that I could photograph the Opening Session. However, they categorically stated that I am not allowed to photograph His Majesty the King. That was a blow – for me personally as a photographer as well as an adoring subject, it would be such a life time opportunity to be able to photograph His Majesty the King presiding over the Opening Ceremony of the National Assembly.
Among the birding community of the world, there is a term known as “life bird”. What it means is that the birder has never seen a certain bird ever before in his life and so on a given birding trip, his entire focus is on sighting his “life bird”. Everything else is secondary. Similarly, as a photographer, I would have hit my proverbial high Note the day I get to photograph his Majesty the King. But obviously, 20th November, 2009 was not that day for me. Well, no matter, perhaps one day I too will be lucky enough to get my “life bird” but for now, I will just concentrate on the Opening Ceremony.
The rules of the game were clearly understood. I obtained my “MEDIA” Card from the Chief Security Officer of the RBP. I resolutely adhered to my resolve of the night before not to drink my customary one flask of black tea that morning so that I don’t have to keep running to the loo instead of shooting the Opening Ceremony. I checked to see that all my camera bodies and lenses were packed in the bag, I checked every lens to see that the UV filters were all dismounted (attention photographers: when you have to shoot in dim light, remove the UV filter to allow in more light – it helps). I checked to see that I had extra battery for each of my 3 camera bodies that I was carrying; I checked to see that I had enough memory cards to last me through the Ceremony. It was all systems GO!
And now the anti-climax! – when the moment finally arrived, I was not only prohibited from photographing the proceedings of the Opening Ceremony, but I was also barred from sitting in the Hall, even after I repeatedly gave my assurance that I will not engage my camera. I was unceremoniously ushered out of the Assembly Hall with one officious looking roundish girl offering to give me a photograph of His Majesty, if that were my wish. I am not sure if she was mocking me or sympathizing with me for my misfortune, but for sure she did not know the unwritten rule among professional photographers: no professional photographer worth his salt will want to use other photographers’ images. In fact, it is considered an insult to suggest such a thing! She had the audacity to further announce to me that even Kuensel photographers were not allowed. WOW!! That is certainly news! I know that in the past, other photographers have been barred but never, ever before in the history of the National Assembly was a Kuensel photographer ever disallowed from photographing the proceedings. In fact, it was mandatory that they are there without fail. So then what unknown upheavals had taken place in this country without my knowing about it? Has apartheid actually arrived in Bhutan? I remember that almost three decades ago, a chilip journalist had fumed and commented that Bhutan practiced “apartheid in reverse”.
I am truly baffled! I have time and again been told that the Speaker of the National Assembly had sole authority to grant or disallow permission to photograph the proceedings of the National Assembly. I was given to believe that in matters concerning the Parliament and its conduct and proceedings, his authority and power exceeded even those of the government. That is the reason why I explicitly sought and obtained his permission to photograph the Session. Had I known that some other agency had the legitimate authority and power to override him, I would have attempted to seek that organization’s permission as well.
It does not seem correct that the government has not yet put in place a central authority to oversea such matters instead of making it possible for every one to issue and impose rules and restrictions at will – as and when they please. Lot of confusion and hardship to the citizens of this country can be avoided if all those who think they have a need to impose their rules and restrictions channel their impositions through a nominated central authority that has been appropriately mandated with a proper legal basis to do so. This way, new rules and regulations can be disseminated with effectiveness through one single source so that unsuspecting people like me are not caught unawares. It will also prevent incidences of someone actually challenging the legitimacy of the authority that is imposing an out-of-turn restriction at the last minute.
On the stairway leading to his office, I ran into His Excellency the Opposition Leader who asked me if I was getting good photos. I told him I have been thrown out of the Hall. He looked startled and pained and muttered something kind which did little to suppress the anger that was welling up within my chest. I needed to get out of the complex fast before I did something stupid and get myself into a situation about which I would live to regret later.
As I was driving out of the parking lot, a friend stopped me to enquire if the Opening Session was over. It hadn’t even begun, but I told him yes it was over. He was puzzled that it should be over so fast. I informed him that the Opening Session of the 4th Session of the National Assembly qualifies as the shortest and the fastest in the history of Bhutan’s National Assembly. With that I drove off; I was in no mood for small talk.
I am angry and I feel cheated and deprived and my right as an equal citizen abused but there is nothing I can do about it or anyone to whom I can complain about it without risking serious repercussions. I simply cannot risk distortion of truth. I am old enough and wise enough to know that it is best for me to take it in my stride. But somehow, I need to vent my frustrations so that it helps me to put this detestable episode behind me and to move on. So here I am, within the confines of my own private weblog, pouring out my frustrations in the hope that, at the end of it, my anger and frustration is smothered to an extent that it is no longer a pulsating, throbbing pain in my temple.
Very few people know of the hard work and the pain and planning that goes behind creating beautiful and appealing images. But as a passionate and committed photographer, it is commonplace for me that each of my pursuits does not yield a great photograph. I have grown to consider every defeat as a challenge to strive even harder, to capture that one perfect shot in the way I visualize it. I am never disappointed at my failed attempts at photographing a rare or flighty bird or a beautiful peak exposed in all its majesty. I will try again and again and keep trying, until I get it! After all, if it were that easy to get great shots, any Tom, Dick and Harry would qualify to be called a photographer.
In the life of a photographer, daily challenges thrown up by the uncompromising nature of the natural world is nothing new. I live it and triumph over it from frame to frame. In fact, I find that more difficult the pursuit, greater is the reward and satisfaction of achievement. But at times there are situations and occasions engineered by fellow humans that no amount of commitment or good intention or hard work can yield results. It is at these times and in such situations that I have to concede defeat – times such as the 20th of November, 2009 when prohibition was imposed on me from recording the historical moment of the Opening of the 4th Session of Bhutan’s National Assembly; times when I am even barred from sitting in the Assembly Hall – let alone photograph the event.
Photography is not an exact science – it is a creative process. Only in automated factory assembly lines it happens that the outcome of each and every process is exactly the same in all respects. By contrast, every photographer’s work will differ from one to the other. Each will compose and frame and apply totally different perspectives to the same subject or scene. It is an expression of individual creativity and thus, no two individuals will produce an identical work. Therefore, it is my belief that allowing only one or two photographers to record the country’s historical events, each of which are unique in themselves, would be to limit and stifle the scope and scale of things. I do not mean to challenge the competence of the photographers but that there are others who could provide differing and more interesting perspectives to the same events. Participation by other photographers should not be misconstrued as competition but as something that will add variety.
The historical moments of which they are a part, belong to the people of Bhutan and must be recorded and archived for the benefit of posterity. Towards that endeavor, it is my belief that no single individual photographer can claim to be able to do the job so well and so perfectly that others are not required to render interpretation of the same event from a different perspective.
I am not a gawk-eyed tourist bearing an idiot camera and pointing it at His Majesty to take a mug shot. I am a professional photographer with the world’s very best professional gear attempting to record a piece of history that is in the making. If anything, people should be happy that I am contributing to the collective enrichment of our history, instead of chasing me away from a place to which I have gained lawful entry to conduct an authorized activity from an authority empowered to grant such permissions.
From all the reports and images in the media, His Majesty goes to great lengths to endear Himself to His subjects. All those beautiful and heart-warming images of Him hugging and embracing His subjects, holding small children in His arms, laughing and smiling away with His people all indicate that His Majesty truly and genuinely wishes to identify Himself with His people with whom I am told He is most at home. Therefore, I think it is wrong on the part of the government to put up barriers and deny licensed professionals like me the occasional opportunity to proliferate the mystique and the enigma that is the Druk Gyalpo.
It is a pity and a great injustice that even while being in the thick and thin of it, I as a professional photographer, with the very best of equipment and the necessary credentials do not have a single credible image of the country’s greatest and most illustrious Icon, to prove that I am a worthy photographer. It is not that I didn’t try – I tried every occasion that presented me an opportunity but every time I was shooed away like I was a leper. It is as if these people think that I am not responsible enough to know how to acquire the images of His Majesty or what to do thereafter.
No matter, for the moment, I have no choice but to eat humble pie and give up my aspirations of photographing the National Assembly. I will not do so hence forth. However, I hope that times will change and those people who currently deny me my life opportunity to photograph my King will move on and be replaced by ones who can introduce a system of separating the wheat from the chaff – instead of erecting an impregnable barrier around a photographic subject of such unparalleled appeal and allure.
Until then, I will bid my time – if ever it will come.
(Reproduced from his blog – Bhutan: Land of the Thunder Dragon, posted on November 23, 2009)
Dear Yeshay Dorji,
There is no freedom in Bhutan a bit you know it well. You were trying to catch the precious movements in history,your passion but so sorry to know that you were denied to take pictures of the proceeding. I t was a grave injustice to you.I t was your every wright as a citizen to take picture as you are the professional photographer. Despite that it is learnt that you got all the permission to do so in advance. When I read your articles i feel so sad that I could have given you the permission if I had all that power on earth.
You have simply praised the king, but the bottom line is that the king himself gave such harsh order not to allow any journalist or photographers.
You just experienced a fraction of pain in the making. But you know, we underwent such a extent of pain and suffering never to be recovered again when I WAS EXPELLED FROM THE country without my own fault. I am deprived of all the life time saving,land and property ,family split and many more extreme sufferings.
Not to talk of the hellish life in the camps 18 Y E A R S. I endured all. Yeshay,you may feel that yours was the only excessive suffering but mine is untold misery. So does all the Bhutanese refugees feel. The king (fourth king,dago tshering and rest of the cruel hands invited the hell of sufferings to 100,000 plus Bhutanese refugees.My straight prayers goes to almighty that the present regime goes sooner than later so that the freedom prevails in Bhutan so that we all the citizens can march forwards in peace and tranquility in hands in hands.
I article is interesting to read and well as it contain the reality of the ruler of Bhutan. Bhutan has no democracy instate it has authoritative democracy. A single photograph of people ruler is nothing. we can see the photograph of King in a different media when he visited the other countries in the world. Why the bhutanese photographer are bar from taking the king’s photos? It is ridiculous.The photographer/writer should come forward to show the reality of Bhutan. this article clearly show how the bhutanese ruler are not in favor of people. They are not elected by the people and they are the one who are pick up by the rulers.
Bhutan has true democracy or not can be judge by this event.
Shame on the democracy that is eye washing the world in the name of GNH.
Who knows, how many Yeshey Dorji’s are hiding the same torture and indignity from so called royal media and tycoon who are destroying Bhutan.
In the years to come the the Last Shangrila will start vomiting like yeshi and the nation will rise again to ask the right from the king, this time from his ethnic group.. lets see which army will be use to crush them, perhaps the Indian army since Bhutanese will defend their parents than siding with the regime.
Hageylo palden drukpa
The story really carries the burden of humilation on one hand and on the other hand reflects the reality of the Bhutan’s Democracy. It is a great disrespect to one whose profession is kick infront of him or her.No matter ,never give up hope and aspiration as many such hopes and aspirations pave the foundation of greatv success.
Thers is no true democracy and freedom in Bhutan because the rulers still possess feudal attitude and their mind sets are that they are the masters and other ordinary Bhutanese are their servants who must obey and bow before them. Transtition to a free and an open society from a closed and feudal mentality will take a long time and Bhutanese rulers must now change their attitude. They must know that they are not the masters but servants to people. Officials who violate people’s rights must be punished and such incidence like the above must be investigated to find out why this freedom was denied to Mr. Dotji whereas he has his democratic rights to take any pictures because constitutionally it is not a crime to take pictures of any body and no body is above the law and constitution. The highest and most pwerful person in he world, President of America is bound by US constitution and law. I don’t think there is any body so powerful and influential in the world who should not be under a law.
Dear Commentators,
I am flattered that you find my experience posted on my blog interesting to read and worthy of discussion here. However, having gone through all the comments, I have to point out that I may have, after all, failed to convey the right message.
As I have stated in my post, I was explicitly told that the permission to photograph the Opening Session of the National Assembly was being granted to me on the condition that I will not photograph His Majesty the King who would be attending the Opening Ceremony. Thus, the expression of my displeasure was not based on the fact that I was not allowed to photograph the King but for the reason that I was not allowed to sit and observe the Opening Session even after I gave assurance that I will not engage my camera. If you re-read my post, you will understand that my original purpose of going to the Hall was to photograph the Opening Ceremony and not to photograph the King.
Barring me, and others, from taking photographs of His Majesty the King does not constitute deprivation of our constitutional rights or curtailment of our democratic freedom. I recognize and accept that there are compulsions arising out of security and other reasons why restrictions must be placed on the people from photographing the King as and when and where they like. We in Bhutan will happily forfeit that freedom and right, if it is for the cause of the safety and wellbeing of our Monarch.
While I thank you very much for your sympathies, I have to state that you do so for the wrong reasons. I would have been a much happier man had you sympathized with me for having suffered denial at the hands of people who did not perform their duty with finesse, rather than on the belief that I was unhappy and disappointed that I did not get to photograph my King.
Wishing you all happiness and good life
Yeshey Dorji
Photographer
Thimphu / Bhutan
Thanks for the great post. I have bookmarked it and will return for new posts.
Dear Yeshey Dorji,
Thank you for your post which is a great prove for international community that Bhutan tiny Himalayan country under control of monarch,whose citizens are suppression where the dictators supress every rights of people with the back of militants.
Keep up one people will win.
Wrong type of democracy, is’nt it? Never expect anything good from them.
Dear Yeshey Dorji,
You are the only one .who is consider as a true J.Thank you